Eco-leather or real leather? 6 foolproof tricks to avoid being fooled when buying a bag

An important clarification on Italian legislation

In Italy, the use of the word “pelle” is regulated by law. According to LEGISLATIVE DECREE 9 June 2020, n. 68 ( New provisions on the use of the terms “cuoio”, “pelle” and “pelliccia” and those derived from them or their synonyms and the related sanctions, pursuant to article 7 of law 3 May 2019, n. 37 - European Law 2018. (20G00084) ) , it is forbidden to use the word “pelle”, even accompanied by prefixes or suffixes , to identify materials that do not derive from animal skin . Therefore, expressions such as “eco-pelle” , “synthetic leather” or “vegan leather” are misleading if not accompanied by a clear specification of the synthetic material.

Unfortunately, many consumers are unaware of this regulation and are led to believe that a product is natural, sustainable or of artisanal quality, when in reality it is made from petroleum- derived materials.

🔍 What is eco-leather really?

Contrary to popular belief, eco-leather in Italy is real leather , tanned with techniques with low environmental impact, such as vegetable tanning .

However, on the market – especially online or in large-scale distribution – the term “eco-leather” is often used improperly to describe plastic materials , such as polyurethane (PU) or PVC , passing them off as sustainable alternatives.

In other words, many products labeled as "eco-leather" are not eco-friendly at all , much less leather.

It is therefore correct to speak of Eco-leather when referring to real vegetable-tanned leather , and imitation leather to describe synthetic materials that try to mimic the visual and tactile consistency of real animal skin.

Unfortunately, on the Italian market, the word eco-leather is used inappropriately (obviously not on labels because the law does not allow it), confusing the end customer.

Why it's important to recognize the difference

Choosing a genuine handcrafted leather bag means making a smart investment: in style, durability and environmental responsibility. A genuine leather bag can last for decades , acquiring a unique charm over time. A faux leather one? On average it gets ruined after 1 or 2 years , cracks, fades and… ends up in landfill.

Additionally, vegetable-tanned real leather is a natural and biodegradable material, unlike the synthetic plastics used for faux leather, which release microplastics into the environment.

The golden rules for recognizing real leather

Here are 5 tricks also used by leather goods professionals:

1. Smell doesn't lie Real leather has a natural, deep and unmistakable scent. Faux leather smells like plastic or is completely odorless.

2. Touch with your fingers Natural leather has an irregular surface , with small veins, pores and a warm softness to the touch. Faux leather appears perfect, uniform and plasticized. Real leather can have imperfections.

3. Check the cut If you can see the edge of the material, you will notice that real leather has a fibrous, compact, layered structure . Faux leather often has a textile or spongy texture.

4. The Nail test Press lightly with your nail: real leather leaves a temporary mark that disappears when massaged. Fake leather does not react… or it gets ruined.

5. Read the label Quality products will say “ genuine leather ” or “ leather ”. If you see acronyms like PU , PVC or “synthetic material”, you already know that it is not real leather.

6. The water test puts a drop of water on your skin and see what happens: Your skin is permeable so the drop will be absorbed. If it stays on the surface, it could be plastic.

Craftsmanship never lies

Each handcrafted genuine leather bag, like those from Pelle Nuda Milano , is a unique piece. No two are identical: the grain, the color, the way the leather ages and transforms over time changes. This is the charm of true Made in Italy : authenticity, uniqueness and hand-sewn history .

Bottom line: Why choose real leather?

• ✅ It is a natural , biodegradable and sustainable material

• ✅ Gets better over time

• ✅ Lasts for years (and often decades)

• ✅ It is elegant, profound, authentic

• ✅ It is a sign of respect for Italian craftsmanship